Selected articles
Persian Picnics
Our last morning in Mashad was enlivened by a game of social chess. Bruce was determined not to be shown the documentary that is otherwise screened to all western visitors to the Imam’s shrine. So instead of quietly submitting to forty minutes of propaganda, we had a much longer series of interviews with clerics.
Tehran Museum Talk
But Iran had done well. The Tehran Museum of Modern Art had exchanged an unshowable female nude from its basement in order to reclaim a central piece of its literary and artistic history.

Moving Mountains
Iran is quantifiably, and continuously, more magnificent than anything I had imagined.
Herding travel writers across Iran
Fortunately the second rule of group travel, remained inviolable and intact: when you happen upon delicious looking street food in a covered bazzar, you buy sufficient for all.